Installing the manual (locknut) cam chain tensioner. The old spring-loaded one was sticky so I ordered up a billet aluminum one from APE.The instructions say to tighten until light resistance is felt (i.e. you are touching the the chain with the chain guide) and then back out 1/4 turn.
However in practice this will result in a cam chain that will jump the sprockets IF you do not have all the chain slack behind the intake cam!!! One thing I've learned about this job is WHEN REBUILDING A TOP END, KNOW WHERE THE CAM CHAIN SLACK IS. I actually came across a scary situation related to this - after installing the tensioner I realized that my careful job of setting the cams was wrong. I had not ensured there was tension on the cam chain from the exhaust cam straight down to the crankshaft and, when I turned the engine a few times after installing the tensioner, that slack in front was taken up and both cams were five or six teeth out of whack. I had to loosen up all the cap bolts and painfully work the chain across several teeth to fix it. So...word to the wise - install the tensioner (loosely) to take up all the cam chain slack before you button those camshafts down.
I won't know if the tension on the cam chain is correct till I start the motor and hear what kind of noise it makes. You are supposed to set it somewhere in the vicinity of tightish, so the chain doesn't slip, then loosen it till you hear clatter, then tighten it till clatter goes away and lock it down.
Gasket sealant really stinks, by the way.
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